Contact:
Elaine Eadler, Project Director
Department of Visual and Performing Arts
University of Maine at Farmington
Farmington, ME 04938
Phone: 207-778-7515
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Our Stories, Ourselves : Exploring the Traditional Culture of Franklin County
by Brent Bjorkman

The cultural richness of Franklin County is immense.

I think it is safe to say that, to a large degree, a community is defined by the human spirit that drives it. Local residents of a community often understand but do not articulate the dynamics of this spirit. The elements of traditional life that lie at the surface of a region are often seen by community members as simply just “how we live,” “nothing special,” or are even shrugged off with statements like, “we’ve always just done it that way.” A community can be best understood through the stories, oral accounts, or memories of these same individuals. For the residents of Franklin County, Maine, each person’s story is as important as the next and collectively these elements of oral history inform us of both the diversity and unifying nature of the cultural richness of this community.

The ideas that drive the following overview of Franklin County come from a cross-section of residents sharing stories about their lives. These individuals are only a small sampling of a population that prides itself on a deep personal connection to the local landscape, abundant natural resources, and neighbors who live independently yet count on each other when needed. Interviewed over a period of twelve days, the following narrators talked about intimate aspects of traditional Western Maine life, shared personal stories about their families and their working lives. They retold memories of the past and shared their aspirations for the future. Although this collection of voices is only a sampling, as you read you will notice important traditional themes that occur again and again in the lives of many who call Franklin County their home.

The cultural landscape and the physical landscape are one in the same.

Franklin County is geographically unique when compared to the rest of the state. Historically, the county has been known as a “transition zone” in which the southern half has thrived as an agricultural center while the northern half has concentrated on logging and industries associated with the woods. For generations this has dictated that Franklin County residents need to be a grounded in both worlds. Whether I was talking to traditional quilt artists or oxen yoke makers or organic farmers nearly every individual relayed a current or past connection to making a living, at least part time, in the forest and on the land. The physical landscape of Franklin County – particularly the changing seasons – play a key role in shaping the cultural landscape. The ties between the seasons and the cultural of this community are strong.

For the Mosher family of Temple, working with teams of horses and oxen hauling lumber out of the woods has evolved from a livelihood to a recreational outlet. As large mechanical skidder and bulldozers mechanized the logging process, three generations of this family keep the animal tradition alive by competing in pulling contests at several of the twenty-seven Maine fairs that take place throughout the state each summer. Buddy Mosher has early memories of working the woods with his father Herb.


Herb "Buddy" Mosher, photo by David L. Olson

Buddy talks about early days working in the woods with his father, Herb Mosher

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Toby Mosher talks about using animals in logging today

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"Back when I first started we had chainsaws that were so big that you could knock a tree down with them, not like today’s chainsaws, and when you limbed a tree you limbed it with an axe. And quite often we had to peel the tree because they didn’t want the bark. Today they love the bark because they sell it for mulch, back then, they didn’t have a use for it……

Before then, when my Dad would get laid off from making shoes at Bass we’d go to work in the woods and he had a big team (of horses) and I’d have a little team, he’d haul the tree and I’d haul the top and if he got hung up I’d hook onto him with my little team, quite often.   I was twelve or thirteen."  — Buddy Mosher, Temple, Ox Yoke Maker and Lumberman


Toby Mosher, photo by David L. Olson

Many long-held agricultural traditions are still embraced by generations of Franklin County residents who keep these family and community legacies alive. The production of sugar syrup has a long continuity that reaches back to American Indian tribes who taught early settlers the art of tapping maple trees. Throughout the years sap collection has moved from a system of hand-collected individual buckets to the nearly universal gravity feed system which ties the orchard together with a flexible network of plastic tubing. Today, maple syrup production remains both a major source of pride and livelihood for hundreds of families and small business owners throughout the region. The syrup production season runs from the end of February throughout the month of March and culminates with a state-wide celebration centering around this important agricultural commodity. Pete Tracy of Farmington, a member of the Maine Maple Producers, was part of the group who initiated this special springtime event:

Maine Maple Sunday was started about 1980. Myself and a group of Maine Maple Syrup Producers Association, of which I and my family are members, were sitting around thinking about what we could do to promote our industry because when you think of maple syrup you never think of Maine you think of, you know, Vermont or New York or some of the other states, and Quebec. Right now Maine is the second largest maple syrup producer in the United States, the state of Maine is. People don’t realize that but we are right nip and tuck with Vermont and we’ll probably pass them someday. But Quebec makes more syrup than we do, in the province of Quebec, makes more syrup than all the United States combined. That’s how big they are. Anyway, we were all sitting around about 1980 at a meeting trying to figure out what we could do to promote it and we said, “Why not have an open house, a state-wide open house” and we went to the Department of Agriculture and said, “Can you help us out with this, with the publicity and stuff”? and they said yeah and we put it on and the first year it was like, 8 or 9 or 10 producers did it and, of course, Maine is a big state but we kinda got the whole state represented then it snowballed and now there’s probably 30 or 40 producers and it is always the 4th Sunday in March, always. We keep that same date so people will know. It’s a big event and there are lots of other places around the area that have pancake breakfasts and we have even had the Kiwanis and Rotary tie-in with this, you know to do fundraising stuff because it is a big thing, you get people moving all over the place. People are really sick of the winter. About the end of March they want to get out and move about and we offer doughnuts and ice cream, samples and stuff, and we sell things. It a big draw and people like to come here because we still use wood to boil our sap with. So that is Maine Maple Sunday and how it got going and its been going now for 25 years, how about that? And after we did that a lot of the other industries copied us. You have the Maine Farm Days and the Blueberry Producers, the Apple Producers a lot of those guys have got together and said, “Hey, let’s do the same thing and have a big open house day.” but the maple industry, yep, we started it. — Pete Tracy, Farmington, Maple Syrup Producer and Forestry Consultant



Maple Hill Farm sugar shack, photo by Brent Bjorkman

Origin of Maine Maple Sunday

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The Tracy operation and the maple syrup process

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A family of lumbermen

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Pete Tracy, photo by Brent Bjorkman

The sugar maple and its benefits

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Donna Tracy remember grandfather’s sap harvest on Bannick Mountain

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Like many Franklin County residents the lives of Tracy and his family are shaped by the seasons in both an economic and social sense. Throughout the years Western Mainers have developed a prideful adaptability and a self-sufficient nature that certainly is a regional form of “Yankee Ingenuity.” What some have called Yankee Ingenuity many residents of Franklin County simply call “living.” This feeling stretches far back into history and can be seen more recently when an entire “back to the land” movement brought new individuals and families to the region in the 1970s. These were people in search of a greater level of self-sufficiency and a healthier lifestyle. For over 30 years these settlers and other newcomers have made their homes alongside local farm families with names like Tracy and York, both learning from these long established county residents and sharing their own thoughts and techniques on agricultural management.

Karla Bock and Bob Basile, owner of Hoof ‘n Paw Farm Greenhouse and Harness Repair settled in the community of New Sharon 20 years ago. Although not part of the back to the land movement themselves, Bock and Basile came with ideas of living a more self-sufficient life. The couple began by planting a garden their first year. This grew into setting up a truck and selling produce at the Sandy River General Store their second year in the area. Since then Bock and Basile have continued to live a self-sustaining life on their own terms, working much of their acreage with horse-drawn implements, becoming increasingly entrenched in the organic food movement, and embracing the lifestyle provided by life in Western Maine. Like most residents, Bock and Basile do many different things to make a living. Bock is a licensed clinical social worker in addition to the many agricultural responsibilities she is involved in. Basile is the cornerstone of the farm day to day.


Karla Bock at her farm market stand, photo by Brent Bjorkman

Karla talks about the future of farming

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Why Franklin County is a special place

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Bock sees the sustainability of Franklin County farm families this way:  "For the future, people will have to find a niche or diversify. There are hardly any farmers who make their living just as farmers and that has been true for years. One of the main problems is you can’t afford health insurance, you know unless someone has a job so a lot of farmers have a wife that’s a nurse or a teacher or something so the family has health insurance. A lot of the local dairy farmers have gone organic because if they hadn’t they’d have to go out. Because if you are an organic dairy farmer you get a higher premium for your milk……… You really have to like what you are doing to do it because it is long hours and low pay. We’ve never gone away on a vacation together, we can’t, someone has got to take care of the animals and find someone who is willing to take care of wood stoves, who is comfortable with a stallion, and who can milk goats at the same time it is not easy to find." — Karla Bock, New Sharon, Organic Farmer

The theme of ingenuity is a constant companion in Western Maine. For many this term is an embraced necessity that has carried them throughout their lives. Blacksmith Ray Tilton has spent a lifetime exploring his innovative craft with a growing passion. Starting out as an apprentice for local blacksmith Charles Purrington in the 1950s, Tilton has a long history as an industrial blacksmith and in working in ornamental design metal. Tilton sees blacksmithing as an art that is constantly evolving and presenting new challenges.

"The biggest thing is people are amazed that you can take a piece of metal and heat it up and it becomes plastic, in a sense, and you can work it, bend it, twist it, shape it, do anything you want and if you have the “picture in the mind” what you want the end result to be you can make some pretty fabulous things out of fifty cents worth of metal. That to me pretty much covers it, what you can accomplish. It depends on your ability somewhat but I find most people surprise themselves when they apply themselves and it turns out better than they expect. Most people won’t challenge themselves, as a rule but I’ve always been like that. If someone brings something new into the shop I will take a whack at it, I mean if it doesn’t work it don’t cost them anything. That’s how you learn, is by doing. You can pretty much apply that to life in general.”
— Ray Tilton, Wilton, Blacksmith



Photo by David L. Olson


Ray Tilton "drawing out" metal, photo by David L. Olson

Industrial metal work on horse-drawn sleds

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Blacksmithing - “It’s been good to me"

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Life’s lesson in metal

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Stubbing your eye

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Blacksmithing - a dying art

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The ties of recreational traditions to the landscape

In addition to providing an important livelihood for several generations of Franklin County residents, the forests, rivers, valleys and mountains have been a source for leisure time activities as well. As the working life of much of this region is dictated by seasonal change so are the recreational traditions that celebrate the abundant outdoor life of the region. For many, hunting, fishing, or traveling to the family camp on the lake are as second nature as the coming of the seasons themselves. Since the days before the automobile when the narrow gauge railroad system first brought tourists north to the vacation and camp communities in and around the Rangely Lake area, Franklin County folks have enjoyed and thrived in the outdoors and shared their precious natural resources with those from “away.” Many Maine Guides make their living leading visitors on fishing and rafting excursions and as a group these guides have formed their own unique culture.


Phil Foster tying flies, photo by Brent Bjorkman

Learning from my father, the master

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Foster reads from his book, Grouse Dogs and Salmon

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The story of his first Atlantic Salmon

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Retired guide and expert fly tyer Phil Foster of Farmington has spent a lifetime in the woods and on the rivers of Franklin County, a legacy left to him by his father:

"Of course you learn, when you’ve been brought up with a man that takes you hunting and takes you fishing, you learn, and you learn from the master. He taught me how to hunt birds with a dog, which I ultimately did. I guided for a number of years, and my original Brittney (spaniel) - I worked for a number of years, guiding with and made a lot of money with her. And he taught me how it should be done, how you work with a dog, what to expect from your dog, how to train your dog……you just learn those things and you learn about fly fishing and things like that. We trapped beaver together a couple of winters. My father had a great interest in the preservation of the outdoors. He was way ahead of his time in terms of being a great conservationist and a conservationist is a “wise use of” resources."  — Phil Foster, Farmington, Maine Guide, Fly-tier, and Decoy Carver.



Photo by Brent Bjorkman

A major part of the wintertime recreational life of the region has been the development, over time, of skiing as a sport. From Farmington’s Titcomb Mountain to the ever-growing reputation of Sugarloaf/USA Ski Area in the Carrabassett Valley in the north, the enthusiasm for this winter sport has its beginnings with adventurous individuals like Kingfield’s own Amos Winter. With a dream to share his passion with the kids of the town, Winter recruited young men like Stub Taylor to help him cut the first ski run on this well known mountain. Taylor would eventually go on to be Sugarloaf’s first Ski Patrol Director in 1955, a position he ultimately held for 42 years until his retirement in 1997. Taylor remembers well the exciting days of his youth when Franklin County ski culture was in its infancy.

“(On Amos Winter) He was like a father to me, he always wanted the kids to keep off the streets and stuff. He taught us all how to bowl and dance and ski so he had quite a following. He was very interested in see the mountain develop. We used to ski over on Bigelow in the early 40s. I graduated from high school in ’53 so it was right during my prime time. So they had one trail, they cut one trail on Bigelow, they were skiing on Bigelow, they knew Sugarloaf was there but Sugarloaf was a long ways from the main road compared to Bigelow and we had climbing skins, we didn’t have any lifts so we had to climb up on these mohair devices that went on the bottom of your skis so that you could climb a hill…….finally we got permission to cut a trail to the top……it was actually cut in 1950/’51 by Amos and the crew, he called them the “Bigelow Boys” there was a few of them, like myself, from Kingfield and that’s eventually how it started. Then he started getting more people there and of course it was still all climbing, and then the Sugarloaf Ski Club formed.” - Stub Taylor, North Anson, Sugarloaf Ski Patrol Director 1955-1997


Stub Taylor, photo by Brent Bjorkman

Early days and Amos Winter

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Cutting the first run on Sugarloaf

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History of "getting up the mountain"

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The creative landscape: folk music and folk arts

Franklin County has long been well known for producing and supporting talented musicians from the famous soprano Madame Lillian Nordica to the current local community chorus and orchestra. Equally important are the elements of traditional folk music that are brought to life by musicians like fiddler Hank Washburn of New Sharon, Fred Lager of Jay, and up and coming youth groups like the Franklin County Fiddlers. Led by talented fiddler and music mentor Steve Muise, The Franklin County Fiddlers are known for performing a variety of music emblematic of the traditional Franco-American and Celtic fiddling styles of the region. These young musicians share their talents with audiences around Western Maine and beyond and continue to explore, with the assistance of Muise, Maine’s Downeast fiddling styles.

The Downeast style is French in origin and is currently being played by 2nd, 3rd, and 4th generations of the emigrants who first came down to Western Maine from southern Quebec looking for work in the mill towns throughout the area. As seen in the following example, traditional music does not hold itself to defined borders.


Contra dance fiddlers, photo by David L. Olson

Origins of the Downeast sound

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Muise playing Maritime tune - St. Anne’s Reel

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Muise playing Crooked fiddle tune from Quebec

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Muise playing Cajun fiddle

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Muise explains the migration of Maine’s Downeast sound:  "The Downeast style is also known as Maritime fiddling music and it really is influenced from Quebec, southern Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. So, it would be the French speaking peoples of Acadia and the French speaking peoples from Quebec. And here, not too far from Franklin County there is Highway 201 where a lot of the people of Quebec actually walked down, from southern Quebec, down this trail to mills in Waterville and Lewiston and Augusta and they left their influence along the way and obviously settled in the villages where the mills were and right here we have a mill in Jay which would have a lot of francophone people. The music that is happening is a lot of jigs and reels, jigs and reels that are played that you possibly could hear in Bose (sp), Quebec, Monkton, New Brunswick or Digby, Nova Scotia, you know music that is just kind of regional, it’s a very smooth fiddle style, it is very tune oriented and it is very danceable music too."  — Steve Muise, Farmington, Fiddler and Music Teacher


Steve Muise, photo by David L. Olson

The variety of traditional creativity goes beyond music in Franklin County. Arbeth (Petie) Coffren of Salem began her life doing crafts at age six when she helped her mother make doll clothes out of the fur collars from “rich lady’s coats.” She then began patchwork quilting with her aunt at age eleven assembling the Nine Patch and Peony patterns which Maine quilters are known for. Growing up poor in the Depression, Coffren father worked for the WPA and the family had to live using all the resources available. Coffren continues today to braid and hook rugs from recycled wools, reclaimed skirts and pants, and the material from old suits. The natural environment also plays a role in Coffren’s versatile handiwork as she seasonally creates Christmas wreaths and ornaments from found objects, like pine cones and fir boughs, from the forest near her home.

This traditional resourcefulness also takes the form of using plant knowledge to locate natural dyes for coloring wool and other textile work.

Coffren shares her expertise in understanding locating ingredients for the dye pot:

"Onion skins, bright yellow, made from onion skins, plain yellow onions, the red onions give you more of a tannish yellow, hemlock barks makes an awfully good nut color, and it can get even a kind of grey if it is green enough. Blueberries make a good blue and wine. Sumac makes a grey, tansy makes quite a bright yellow and clover makes a very pale pink, red clover, baby pink I call it. Oak leaves make a nice rich brown but you have to let them steep in a tub of water for a week or two before you can get the color out of those. And most of these dyes set very well with vinegar or black pepper, yellow particularly, you just dump a tablespoon full of black pepper in the dye pot and when you’re done you get the color and intensity that you want and it’ll set so it won’t run. My mother taught me a lot of them." — Arbeth (Petie) Coffren, Salem, quilter and handicraft artist.


Photo by Brent Bjorkman


Petie Coffren shows off a quilt, photo by Brent Bjorkman

Quilting talk

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Growing up

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The Venison story

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Cutting ice

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Within all these Franklin County voices there lives a richness of community containing profound elements of individuality and at the same time threads of a common experience driven by the cycle of the seasons and a strong sense of place. Within these stories are the memorable moments of perseverance over historical hard times and also the belief in the power and creativity of self, family, and neighbors. This handful of recorded memories is only a small, but poignant, group of vignettes that embody our images of the people living in this special place. These narratives of traditional life are part of an evolving history that informs us both of the far and distant past, but also one that represents the ingenious and self-sufficient spirit alive in Franklin County today.

The author would like to thank the local individuals who assisted him in this Franklin County traditional culture research. Elaine Eadler of University of Maine- Farmington; David Olson owner of MaineWest, Farmington; Bruce Hazzard, President, Mountain Counties Heritage, Farmington; Margaret (Peggy) Yocom, folklorist, Fairfax, Virginia and Rangeley, Maine; Anstiss Morrill, Farmington Falls; Tom Whalen and Susan Atwood, proprietors, Whispering Pines Motel, Wilton; Dan Robbins, Farmington; and all the wonderful narrators who shared their stories, experiences and local traditions with me. BB June 2005